Middle Eastern Dance:
Books

Related Costuming Books

Uzbek Dress
T. A. Abdullaer and S. A Hasanova

The Belly Dance Costume Book
Zarifa Aradoon

Mentioned on the med-dance list, the book is most likely out of print but occasionally has been found in used book stores. It has a gold cover and includes beading patterns as well as "lots of good ideas".

Suleymanname: The Illlustrated History of Suleyman the Magnificent
Esin Atil
Washington: National Gallery of Art (1986)
ISBN 0894680889

Illustrations, illuminations of books and manuscripts; Turkey; History; Suleyman I, 1520-1566.

Costumes of Morocco
Jean Besancenot
Pub: Kegan Paul International Limited (1990)
ISBN: 0-7103-0359-9

(From medance list) "Excellent illustrations, personalized history of costumes. Easy reading." "This is a book of plates of paintings of costumes of the people of Morocco between 1934 and 1939..." --Robin

Costuming From the Hip
Dawn Devine Brown and Barry Brown
Website: http://dottie.sna.com/davina/book

A guide to designing and making Middle Eastern Dance wear. "With over 100 original illustrations, this 120-page book will step you through researching designs for costumes, creating the patterns, constructing the garment and accessorizing. ....the book contains a list of vendors that specialize in Middle Eastern dancewear. There is also a section on men's costumes..." See the website for more information, such as an overview of the book, sample pages and ordering information. Dawn Devine Brown has contributed much useful costuming information to the med-dance mailinglist discussions.

Persian Painting
Sheila R. Canby
London: British Museum Press (1993)
ISBN 0714114596

Mirror of the Invisible World: Tales From the Khamsah of of Nizami
Peter J. Chelkowski with Nizami Ganjavi
New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art (1975)
ISBN 0870991426

A Syllabus of Costuming for Belly Dance
Yazeim Chesley and Karija Dossett
Copyright 1974 by Mary Dossett, last printing 1977
Baladi Centre for Traditional Belly Dance
PO Box 9606 Seattle, WA 98109

"This has both simple and complicated plans and ideas for costuming. Some of the simple diagrams would be easy to cut, fit and sew without patterns.I think the more complicated costuming would coincide with the patterns available under the "Atira" collection. The pieces that are simple, patternless costuming, are harem pants, beledi dress, skirts, belts or "girdles",head wrap ideas, and veil drape." --Zemyna

Ethnic Costume
Lois and Diane Ericson
Van Nostrand REinhold Co., Inc. (1984)
copyright 1979
ISBN: 0-442-22217-3

"With chapters such as The Shirt, The Dress, The Vest, The Jacket, The Coat, they merrily travel both the centuries and the world (Norway, Turkestan, China, Egypt,Burma, etc.) The models are friends and relatives (real people, with real measurements!) wearing contemporary interpretations of the garments, which have small-scale drawings of the pattern pieces used. I highly recommend all of Lois Ericson's books, especially Design & Sew it Yourself (with Diane Ericson Frode - ISBN: 0-911985-00-X) and The Great Put On (with Linda Wakefield ISBN: 0-911985-06-9). I know that she advertises "Eric's Press", selling her books directly, in the sewing mags (but can I find her ad now that I'm looking for it? No!--here's the address out of the back of her books: Eric's Press, PO Box 5222, Salem, OR 97304)." --Shoshannah

Africa Adorned
Angela Fisher
London: Collins (1984)

Jewelry, body marking.

Women In India
Albertine Gaur
London: British Library (1980)
ISBN 090465424

Primitive and Folk Jewelry
Martin Gerlach, editor
New York: Dover Publications, Inc. (1971)

Images of Women:
The Portrayal of Women in Photography of the Middle East 1860-1950
Sarah Graham-Brown
New York: Columbia University Press (1988)
ISBN 0231068263

(From medance list) "I want to recommend [this book]. Lots of food for thought and some very good costume ideas. (Caution: be sure to read the caption and info near the photos. Some of these photos were done by westerners in studios with their own interpretation of facts.)"

Textiles, 5000 years: An International History and Illustrated Survey
Jennifer Harris, Editor

Encyclopedia of Textiles
Judith Jerde

Aesthetics and Ritual in the United Arab Emirates
Aida Kanafani
Ph.D. Thesis: Univ. of Texas, Austin (1979)
or
Aesthetics and Ritual in the United Arab Emirates:
The Anthropology of Food and Personal Adornment Among Arabian Women
Beirut, Lebanon: American University of Beirut (1983)

"My favorite source for henna info has recently been mentioned by Kay, it's _Aesthetics and ritual in the U.A.E._ by Aida Kanafani. Great descriptions of the process of henna-ing." --Zimra

The Belly Dancer's Folkloric Costume and
The Belly Dancer's Cabaret Costume
Rebecca Long
Copyright 1993

"No publisher listed. Actually it [Folklore book, at least] is a soft-covered booklet--the type you can get Kinko's or your local publisher to print up for you. I bought mine from Artemis Imports (see Book Sources page). The costumes covered are Ouled Nail, Tunisian, Melia (Tunisian and other variations), Old and New style Ghawazee, Beledi Dresses, Gulf Dress, Assuit, Turkish slippers, harem pants, and fantasy harem and gypsy." --Soher Azar

"Chandra's Dance Extravaganza carries both the Cabaret Pattern Book and the Folkloric Pattern Book by Rebecca Long." (See Book Sources page.) --Chandra

Mameluke Costume
Mayer

Handlist of Persian Manuscripts
G. M. Meredith-Owens
London: British Museum (1968)
ISBN 714106305

Handlist of Persian manuscripts acquired by the British Museum 1985-1966.

Turkish Miniatures
G. M. Meredith-Owens

Cairo 969-1969
Ministry of Culture and Egyptian Pub. Org., Publishers
no ISBN available

Of cultural and costuming interest. (From medance list) "...there is a photograph of the Reda folk troupe [plate no. 290] doing the 'Siwa Dance'...Its [sic] a good clear photo of costumes, etc."

Mughal Miniatures
J. M. Rogers
London: British Museum Press (1993)
ISBN 071411457X

Suleyman the Magnificent
J. M. Rogers and R. M. Ward

Topkapi: Costumes, Ebroideries and Other Textiles
J. M. Rogers

Topkapi Saray Museum: The Albums and Illustrated Manuscripts
J. M. Rogers and Zeren Tanindi
London: Thames and Hudson (1986)
ISBN 0500013993

Turkey; miniature painting, Islamic; catalogs and collections.

Art of Arabian Costume
Heather Colyer Ross
ISBN: 0907513 00x

(From medance list) "Good for history and illustrations. Includes stitch patterns and easy to adapt diagrams for costume patterns." See Green Duck designs; they sell this, the Art of Bedouin Jewelry and other costuming books.

Art of Bedouin Jewellery
Heather Colyer Ross
ISBN: 0-907513 018

(From medance list) "Good for accessories and hair decorations. Good history, easy reading." See Green Duck designs; they sell this, the Art of Arabian Costume and other costuming books.

Costumes and Customs of the Arab World
Nahda Salah

Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East
Jennifer Scarce
Unwin Hyman, publisher
ISBN: 0-04-391011-4

(From medance list) "There's a good clear plate of a 19th? century painting, p. 126, plus a good read if you're interested in the history."

North African Textiles
Christopher Spring [and Julie Hudson]
London: British Museum Press (1995)
ISBN: 0714125237

"The book is beautifully illustrated and very well researched by two people from the British Museum. It contains sections on: history, raw materials, patterns, textiles for marriage, textiles of town and country, non-woven techniques, textiles of Ethiopia, and continuity and change." --Philip Walker

Palestinian Costume and Jewelry
Yedida K. Stillman
Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press (1979)
ISBN 0826304907

Ottoman Embroidery
Roderick Taylor

Aegean Crossroads: Greek Island Ebroideries in the Textile Museum
James Trilling
Washington, DC: The Museum (1983)
ISBN 0874050219

Palestinian Costume
Shelagh Weir
London: British Museum Press (1989)
ISBN 0714115975

Books on Beading

Designs for Beadwork Applique and Ebroidery Vols I through IV
K. Beckwith

Lots of designs with colors indicated. B/W; 28 p Vol I, 20 p Vol II. $7.95 each.

Zen Beadwork - Improvisational Bead Embroidery
Carol Berry (1995)
Order from her at:
1007 E. Maple St.
Bellingham, WA 98225

"If you order it please mention that you heard about it on the Internet! 30 p, includes detailed colored photo of one of her pieces, spiral bound, $12 (includes postage). Review: Carol Berry was interviewed in Bead and Button, and her work has also appeared in Ornament magazine...This book grew out of Carol's popular classes on beaded embroidery. It covers the basic materials and techniques for beaded embroidery, and includes instructions for a sampler to explore the different stitches as well as a pattern and full instructions for a small beaded pouch. More importantly, this is a book on exploring yourself through beaded embroidery."

Bead Embroidery
Valerie Campbell-Harding and Pamela Watts
Berkeley CA: Lacis Publications (1993)
ISBN 0-916896-50-1

"Traditional and new ways of bead embroidery, emphasizes color and texture. Illustrated, color, 128 p, $38." Also 60 min, $39.95 (presumably, a videotape) "[Imported from England] You will learn how to make unusual beads from wire and thread, how to embroider bugle, seed beads and sequins onto fabric...how to apply gold leaf to beads, how to dye and paint beads before or after stitching, the basics of bead weaving, three ways of couching, the lazy squaw stitch, making beaded machine wrapped cords and tassels with beaded heads,..."

Bead Embroidery
Joan Edwards
Berkeley: Lacis Publications
ISBN 0-916896-447

"Reprint of embroidering beads to textile. B/W illustrations, 192p, $20."

Indian Bead-Weaving Patterns
Chain-Weaving Designs, Bead Loom-Weaving, and Bead Embroidery: An Illustrated "How-To" Guide
Horace R. Goodhue
(1989)
Bead-Craft, PO Box 4563
St. Paul MN 55104 USA
ISBN 0961350318

Contents: American Indian bead-weaving techniques (with and without a loom). Instructions for each technique. Comments: "This is a great book written by a likeable 'character'. Despite its 'home-made' appearance, this small book contains a great deal more interesting and useful information than some other glitzy, glossy, full-color bead books. A no-nonsense, straightforward approach with good instructions." 80 p, illustrative, b/w photos, 26 cm, $8.50.

A Beadwork Companion
Jean Heinbuch

"Bead embroidery on fabric or leather. Contains 11 beadcraft projects for beaders from beginning to advanced...knife sheaths, beaded bags, belts and more!" From LJ's books/videos catalog. Illustrated, color plates, b/w photos, diagrams, pattern charts, 106 p, $10.95.

Decorative Needlepoint: Tapestry and Beadwork
(Originally published in UK under Tapestry and Beadwork)
Julia Hickman
Pleasantville, NY: Reader's Digest Assoc. (1994)
ISBN 0895775913

Bead embroidery. 128 p, color illustrations, 28 cm, $25.

Embroidery Beading: Designs and Techniques
Maisie Jarratt

Follow up to "How to Bead". French embroidery techniques. Illustrated and color plates. 72 p, $25 hardcover, $19 softcover.

How To Bead: French Embroidery Beading
Maisie Jarratt
Kangaroo Press (1991)
ISBN 0864173725

Brief history, full illustrated instructions. 48p, 10 in color, 28 cm, $12-$16.95.

The Beading Book
Julia Jones
(1993) Lacis Publications
3163 Adeline St.
Berkeley, CA 94703 USA
510-843-7178

144 p, hard cover, $30. "...details and illustrates materials, equipment and techniques used for numerous methods of beadwork, including embroidery, beading on net, knitting and crochet, tembour beading, beading on quilts, smocking..." From News and Reviews column of Oct 94 issue of Bead and Button.

Embroidery with Beads
Angela Thompson
London: B.T. Batsford (1987)
ISBN 0713454954

"Emphasizing the smaller beads used in embroidery--seed beads, bugles, crystals, pearls and gemstones--the author first explores the origin of beads and how they've been used in embroidery. Detailed instructions and diagrams describe the basic methods and their variations for sewing different types of beads onto different types of fabric. Beading techniques covered include free stitchery, canvas embroidery, needleweaving, applique, drawn thread work, lace, etc....A whole chapter is devoted to beaded edges, fringes, tassels and cords. Design ideas include beaded clothing and accessories, plus beadwork for the theatre and church." (From Bead Zip.) Lots of illustrations, hardcover, 8 color plates, 120 p, $32.

Haute Couture Embroidery: The Art of Lesage
Palmer White
Berkeley CA: Lacis Publications (1994)
3163 Adelin St.
Berkeley CA 94703
510-843-7178

"...reprint of 1987 edition...color details of embroidery (with beads, ribbon...) ...contains NO how-to information..." (From News and Reviews column of April 95 Bead and Button.) 171 p, hardcover, $60 plus $5 S/H.

Book Sources:

Artemis Imports
PO Box 68
Pacific Grove, CA 93950 USA
phone: 408-373-6762
fax: 408-373-4113
email: artemis@artemisimports.com
Website: http://www.artemisimports.com/

Vendor of all kinds of belly dance supplies including: Kohl, musk, veils, zills, jewelry, belts, music, videos, patterns, books, etc. Books include all kinds of Middle Eastern related topics: culture, history, language, art and design, literature, poetry, travel, etc. Catalog $3. (From medance list) "There are lots of suppliers out there but I'm sold on Artemis because 1) she personally goes abroad for things and knows what she has, 2) has almost everything, and 3) I've been buying from her for the ten years or so that I've been dancing with no problem, and 4) her prices are extremely reasonable. Recently bought a wonderful guedra fibulae brooch set from her which wasn't in the catalog, but she had it when most people I asked said, you want a what???"

Chandra's Dance Extravaganza
6706 NW 18th Avenue
Gainesville, FL 32605 USA
For orders call: 1-800-790-2102
email: chandra@chandras.com
Website: http://www.chandras.com

Chandra sells music, costumes, zills and accessories for Mid-East dance. There's a catalog ($2, refundable with order) and a bi-monthly newsletter ($7 per year for 6 issues) which contains reviews, consignment costumes for sale, calendar of events, etc. Several folks on the med-dance list highly recommend her.

FatChanceBellyDance
P.O. Box 460594
San Francisco, CA 94146 USA
415-647-6035
Web site: http://www.dnai.com/~ash/FCBD/

"FatChanceBellyDance is a celebration of the female spirit. Based in San Francisco, this troupe sees Tribal Style Belly dance with a modern eye. Under the direction off Carolena Nericcio, FatChanceBellyDance has established itself nationwide with innovative workshops and performances. Send SASE (Self-Addressed, Stamped Envelope) for the FatChanceBellyDance mail order catalog featuring music, videos, books, costumes, jewelry, cosmetics and accessories." Their videos: The Tribal Basics Instructional Series 1,2, and 3; and "Tatooed One" and "Live!", performance videos.

International Dance Discovery
108 1/2 E. Kirkwood Ave. #5
Bloomington, IN 47401 USA
812-336-5009
email: 73261.1065@compuserve.com
Website: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/IDD/

IDD, the province of Donna Carlton who also wrote "Looking For Little Egypt" (see above), puts out a free mail-order catalog of books, music, cymbals, etc. See under "Videos - Middle Eastern Dance Video Sourcebook" for info on their video guides.

Lark In The Morning
PO Box 1176 Mendocino, CA 95460 USA
LarkInfo 707-964-3762; Mail-Order 707-964-5569
Fax: 707-964-1979, Retail Showroom: 707-937-LARK
Internet email: larkinam@mhs.mendocino.k12.ca.us (or larkinam@mcn.org)

They're a purveyor of World Musical instruments, books, recordings and videos. "Lark In The Morning is a musician's service founded in 1974 that specializes in hard to find musical instruments, music and instructional materials." You can check out their Lark in the Morning Homepage to see the many things they have to offer (including online articles concerning middle eastern instruments/music).

You can also go directly to their Book Section. There's a Middle Eastern subsection with many books on the music, instruments, how to play etc., including Mary Ellen Donald's Doumbec Delight. Other items include "Best Oud Method", "Saz Method", "Ney Method", all written in Turkish (customers are advised they're worth buying a Turkish dictionary); and other books on music of various middle eastern countries. Many titles are described as including "music" which would appear to mean sheet music. Additionally, there's the Book and Recording Sets section containing a few special book and recording sets with a bit of Middle Eastern drumming on some.

Learning Middle Eastern Percussion
Web site

Learning Middle Eastern Percussion - Book section; just a few books including 2 by Mary Ellen Donald

Mary Ellen Books
P.O. Box 7589
San Francisco, CA
USA 94120-7589
Phone: 415-826-DRUM

Mary Ellen Donald teaches a variety of middle-eastern instruments. Her instructional books and cassettes include dumbek, tambourine, finger cymbals and more. A stamped self-addressed envelope gets you the current brochure of drum, zil and other percussion books and tapes, and announcements of her twice-yearly student shows.

UCSB Middle East Ensemble
Prof. Scott Marcus
Ethnomusicology Program
University of California
Santa Barbara, CA 93106 USA
Music Dept. Info: 805-893-3261
Univ. Info: 805-893-8000

As mentioned on the Medance list, the UCSB Middle East Ensemble put together a sheet music book "of sorts". Several of the songs in it are "popular-type songs". The words and translations may also be included, and there is also a tape or two of the Ensemble playing any/all of the music. The music book and tapes will most likely be on sale at the Mendocino ME Music and Dance Camp in August (see Events page).

And Maybe These Vendors Too...

Audrena's International Bazaar
9720 S. Mason Ave.
Oak Lawn, IL 60453 USA
1-800-327-3406
Web site: http://aleena.com/audrena

"Audrena is the authorized vendor for many Oriental dance videos, cd's, cassettes, and other items. She offers fast, reliable service." Mail order catalog available. Recommended by many.

Dahlal Internationale
7537 Parkdale Ave. Suite 2
St. Louis, MO 63105 USA
1-800-745-6432 or 314-721-1949

Dahlal owns an import business and travels all over the middle/near/far east to get her stock. She is a distributor of costuming by Pharonics of Egypt, a costuming company out of Turkey, and possibly others. She also custom designs costumes and can have them made in the USA or overseas. Additional stock includes appliques, beads, ready-made beaded fringe from Egypt and China, musical instruments, jewelry and a lot of music. Mentioned/recommended on the med-dance list; mail-order catalog available.

Judy's Creative Costumes
Judy Cunningham
Rt. 4 Box 95A
Sedalia, MO 65301-9417
818-826-5743

Handles all belly dance supplies and sponsers seminars.

Scheherezade Imports
2420 Hampden Row
Rockville, VA 23146 USA
phone: 804-749-3059
fax: 804-749-3480
email: sherzade@mnsinc.com

Scheherezade Imports-everything for the middle eastern dancer, we are also the distributor for the Belly Dancing for Fortune and Fame CD. We sell wholesale and retail. Catalog $3 refundable with 1st purchase.

Unicorn Bellydance Supplies
3361 S. Corona
Englewood, CO 80110 USA
303-762-0124

(Their ad) "Everything for the Middle eastern dancer at affordable prices. Zills, records, glitter scarves, fabric, trim, coins, jewelry, swords, drums, motifs, veils, costumes, make-up. To receive the latest catalog, send $2 to Dept. S at the above address."

Universal Imports
12039 Saratoga-Sunnyvale Rd.
Blue Hills Shopping Center
Saratoga, CA 95070 USA
408-257-9655

(Hard to find, call for directions, open Tues-Sat.) Beads, fabric, zils, bra cups, fringe, music, a few ready-made bras and belts, etc. There are usually a few flyers from local teachers, restaurants and events lying around, too. (From medance list) "...well worth a trip. Bolts upon bolts of chiffons, lame's, silks, sequins, brocades, metallic knits. Beads, fringe, appliques, trims, pailettes. Swords, canes and tambourines. Patterns! Caftans and coverups. Some already-made skirts, veils, harem pants, bra/belt sets. Some music and videos. Some jewelry. All in a very small store. All very reasonably priced."

Middle Eastern Cookbooks

Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco
Paula Wolfert
New York: Harper and Rov (1979, but recently reprinted)
ISBN: 0060147210

"Is there a word for us foodies that's the equivalent of "ethnomusicologist," for the musicians among us? If so, [these books] qualify: well-researched cultural footnotes to each recipe, with a real sense of how it tastes and smells to *be* there." --Ma'Aleesh

The Great Book of CousCous
Copeland Marks
1994

"Is there a word for us foodies that's the equivalent of "ethnomusicologist," for the musicians among us? If so, [these books] qualify: well-researched cultural footnotes to each recipe, with a real sense of how it tastes and smells to *be* there." --Ma'Aleesh

Last Modified: 2 Nov 1997

Kimberly Cyr

kimberly@lpl.arizona.edu